In Beijing, there’s an unwritten rule: the best baozi require standing in line. American journalist Jennifer Pak experienced this firsthand in mid-September for NPR, queuing outside a bun shop near a park in the Chinese capital.
Baozi, the fluffy steamed buns found on nearly every street corner in China, come mostly in savory versions: soy sauce pork (the bestseller at the shop Pak visited), eggplant and green pepper, or pickled vegetables. One sign of quality connoisseurs look for: filling juice that seeps through and stains the dough.
That’s confirmed by Samantha Zhao, a Beijing resident Pak met while taking a baozi-making class at a trendy shop called Bao Er Jiu. She was making a local classic known for its juiciness: fennel and pork baozi.
But Bao Er Jiu’s appeal goes beyond tradition. The shop has drawn attention for its eye-catching pineapple-shaped buns, and especially for its signature creation: a chocolate and red bean filling, described as tasty without being overly sweet.
The pairing might sound unusual, though less than it seems. Sweetened red bean paste has filled Chinese buns and pastries for centuries. Combining it with chocolate, though, is a distinctly modern touch.
Nothing suggests the chocolate version has spread beyond this one Beijing shop, and it would be a stretch to call it a national trend. Still, the story might win over skeptics: Pak, who admits she usually hates waiting in line to eat, says that if she passes Bao Er Jiu again on a day when the line is moving fast, she just might take her chances.